And so we head south……….

Ngorogoro and Serengeti are large on my list of things to see before headin home. The great migration! Graeme had warned me off the costs of the Park fees (once again in US$), but the way I figured it, I’m come this far and in a couple of years, a few hundred dollars wouldn’t mean much. Ngorogoro first.  Nothing quite prepares you for this visual spectacle.
I soak it in, drive a little further and soak up some more. My campsite was on the crater edge, which I was going to illustrate, but considering there isn’t much to see when it is dark – I thought I’d show you my ‘just before dark’ set up.
I had a large fire going by sunset, with plans for a braai, but it seems that half the over-landers (like moths) were drawn to the light. And there I was  hoping for a quiet night. There are times I love chatting about travel – to travellers. There are times when I want to be alone. Such was an evening, and after an hour of being friendly – I adopted the silent mode, and if asked a question I would cup my ear and say ‘pardon’? Eventually even the most rhino skinned upped and left. I proceeded to season my T-bone steak and quaff the red. Another successful braai. I the morning I was offski – to the Serengeti. The migration wasn’t far. I barely got rid of my US$ stash and I had bumped into them, as I was briefed I would. At Simba’s koptjies – I found lion atop the granite kopjies. And then a bit further on, this…………….

….as far as the eye can see. Wildebeast! Everywhere. Interspersed are zebra, and the predators and the associate scavengers. I ran into hyena, cheetah amongst a plethora of buffalo, giraffe and lion ………….

But the rains had arrived and after 2 wet nights in the field, I opted to head south. Consulting the map, I figured it would be quicker to take the straight line south. I was, after all, in a Range Rover. Serengeti – Arusha – Dar – Iringa constituted huge distance. Seringeti via Dodoma to Iringa was about 800 km. I should have travelled via tarmac because the dirt roads were horrific.  Two 15 hour days left me stripped. I know the Rangy was knackered afterwards. Occasionally, on the route I would encounter the chinese building roads –

But is wasn’t all bad. Once past Iringa I was back on tar and approaching the Malawi border, I passed through beautiful tea country

Once into Malawi – I knew fuel was scarce. On two 100 lt tanks I would push as far south as possible. Along the way I encountered stuff like this – where dozens of the chaps attempted to take charge. 3 hours later,

success, as the overturned vehicle was shifted enough to allow traffic to pass.  I pulled into my old favourite – Myoka village. But without the owners present, it hadn’t the magic. I moved swiftly with an Aussie couple to Kande beach, which was somewhere some 60 km south. I would bump into a Scottish couple I had met in Nairobi – so a great party was on the cards. A quick check around a nearby village and we bought ourselves something for the braai.

Also, other activities (beyond dinner with the Head Chief) were as follows: 

After that, we sat in Blantyre for 2 days searching for fuel. And then there were discussions about the state of the roads, after the rains, all of which scuppered my plans for a southerly route to Vilankulos. So, headind advice, I headed back NE and then into Moz via Tete, stopping at Chimoio, before continuing south. But more of that later…………

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